The Cultural Centre in El Carmen Valencia

The next time you find yourself deep in the heart of El Carmen, perhaps Valencia’s most emblematic neighbourhood, walking through its narrow streets I have a treat for you. Just for today, I urge you to go past the weird and wonderful restaurants and bars, not stopping at the eclectic shops so characteristic of the neighbourhood, just keep heading down those narrow winding roads. Once you reach the beautiful Plaza del Carmen, you know you are nearby. On another day this is a perfect spot to unwind with a drink or two but for now we must keep going, because we are visiting one of my favourite places in Valencia.

 To one side of the Plaza we find another small street, Calle Museo. This is our street. We are almost there, but   there are further distractions we must ignore. A courtyard garden inside the Palau de Forcalló is definitely a trip   for another day. Draw your gaze away from the lively Café Museu, normally overspilling with punters enjoying   the day beckon us in. Just keep going, because just beyond all of this we arrive at our destination. Look up as   we have reached our goal!

 The outside of the El Carmen Contemporary Cultural Centre, or CCCC for short, gives nothing away. For the unaware, it could be confused as just another old building in an entire neighbourhood of them. The folk outside   often seem to be more interested in the small, instantly Instagramable House of Cats opposite the entrance.   Take  a photo if you like but then duck inside. Once there, the entrance is also unassuming, with very rarely any    kind of queue to get in, let alone a cafe or a shop. 

13th century monastery, 21st century art

All that means you won’t be waiting long to go up the ramp and inside. Only when truly inside does the centre reveal itself. Built on the site of a 13th century monastery the cultural centre combines old and modern in a remarkable way celebrating contemporary culture in all its guises. You will find a diverse range of exhibitions on art, design and literature amongst others, all in a space that inspires as much as the art.

The  various exhibitions are located in different rooms, ranging in size, from small and intimate to cavernous and imposing. The main room, as long as a football pitch with high ceilings. almost three stories high is not to be missed. Two beautiful courtyards connect the various exhibitions These double up as a place to sit and soak in the atmosphere on quieter days, an event space on others. There are trees and plants that adorn the main courtyard with chairs in the middle.  At night it somehow looks even nicer, everything is lit up in reds and purple and the space is elevated to another level entirely. I like to take a moment just sitting in the garden, admiring its beauty, raising a metaphorical glass to those who envisaged such a space and those who made it happen.

Exhibitions based on Valencia, Spain and beyond

The exhibitions themselves also don’t disappoint. I don’t often recognise the names of those that have curated them but I always end up admiring their work. The eclectic mixture of ideas and themes that are rarely repeated, ranging from educational and inspiring to the downright bizarre.  Importantly, the exhibitions change regularly and I always find something new every time we come. It champions the local community but also tells tales of its challenges and problems. Your awareness of the issues that the city has faced and those have done their bit to change it will deepen. It is also wide in its scope covering national and international issues. Not that it is all about serious issues though, it is equally comfortable exhibiting the hugely varied, often weird world of contemporary art. Unlike many of the great museums of the world you can visit these at your leisure. I have never felt rushed by either a crowd or those that work here. This let’s you soak it all up and enjoy the atmosphere in a way that is not always possible.

Final thoughts

As my long list of gushing platitudes testament to, I am not exaggerating in saying that I love this place. In a city full of wonderful things to see and do this is right up there. It leaves me with a warm and fuzzy feeling as well as giving me a  mixture of inspiration and pride. Inspiration to flex my creative muscles more, to make art in some shape or form. I also feel proud to live in a city where culture is taken seriously and such places exist, not only open but also free for all to see. 

We were lucky to spend a month in Valencia before we decided to move here. We were pretty much broke but it was places like the CCCC that made us want to make the move and call it home. It’s now time to head back, happy that now I do call the city home. The places that we ignored on our way here should be still open  and I find now is the time to pause, reflect and on all that we have seen and enjoy the unique cafes and bars in the neighbourhood which we passed on our way here.